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1880’s Project for TVW; Jacket,skirt, bustled overskirt

After a long time coming, completed commission for 1880’s Jacket, skirt and self- bustled overskirt.

Materials used were black dupioni grain hemp-silk blend on bias for main jacket body & overskirt. Jacket is lined in heavy coutil cotton, and as the client preferred to not wear a corset, jacket is fully boned with spring steel & rigilene.

Heavy chinese silk brocade in a gold/black fan pattern in red for frontspiece and skirt w/pocket hidden. Integral bustle in cotton dupioni grain, with Rigilene boning. Buttons from The Haberdashery Cart UK.  http://stores.ebay.co.uk/The-Haberdashery-Cart

Very happy with how it came out, fabric choices make it feel to me like a real garment on not overly “costume-y”. She gave me these photos for reference:

 

 

and my finished version:

So now that’s done, time for a bit of break; off to Tokyo Japan, ah Okadaya & Yuzawaya fabric craft stores here I come!

Scary sewing points

This is more a test post to see how well/easy posting from phone works on wordpress

Every one has those stages in sewing one dreads; setting sleeves, zippers etc. For me, it’s button holes. One of those points that if I make a mistake means taking garment apart, recutting new panel, remaking area and trying again. Always have flashbacks to making a doublet for Shakespeare production, for some reason er couldn’t use a chisel blade so had to use a raw scapel blade. I manged to overcut , necessitating remaking garment, plus sliced a chunk out of work table and my own thumb.
Ever since, I always approach button holing with dread. And a good olfa mat…and a steel ruler to stop blade at end of cut.
I have yet to meet a stitcher who hasn’t bled for learning their craft ;)

(2 days later, no slashed fabric or fingers, and commission finished , huzzah!!!  Now I have to de-thread the entire house, silk brocade makes more shed than a persian cat ;)

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